Pig farmer visits the Colosseum and a butchery

I’m such a farm girl. We’ve spent three full days in fashionable, tourist-thick Rome, but I’m itching to get into the countryside.

We’re on a train heading north to Milano. We’re passing paddocks of bright sunflowers and tall stands of corn. I’ve seen one dairy herd of sheep, but no cattle yet – and certainly no pigs. The soil is a light brown, fawn colour and lumpy.

In Rome we stayed in an apartment in the suburb of Lazio owned by an architect. When visitors book in, she packs her bag and stays with her boyfriend – a clever income-booster. It was a good spot, not touristy, and we think we got a little taste of day-to-day life in the Italian capital.

On the first afternoon we discovered a corner shop with a big fridge of cheese and a slightly smaller shelf of charcuterie. We thought the shop was shutting - the lights were all off – but we realised later the shopkeeper was waking up from his siesta, with the help of a coffee shot. We bought prosciutto, parmigiano reggiano, bread, and wine – of course. I made the shopkeeper laugh when I tried to explain I was a pig farmer by pushing my nose up and snorting. As we left the shop, Bronwyn suggested we really should work on how to say, “I am a pig farmer” in Italian, to avoid embarrassment.

We did some sweaty sightseeing – the Colosseum, the Spanish Steps, and the Vatican. The number of tourists was phenomenal, and so was the price of gelatos from the food wagons parked conveniently outside the historic spots, but it was hot, and we had to have one.

We visited two markets: the first was the Piazza Vittorio Emmanuele. It gave us a look at the multi-cultural side of Rome, with lots of stalls selling lentils, spices, Asian vegetables, and halal meat. In a way I was a bit disappointed, because each vegetable stall seemed to have exactly the same selection of products, and I wondered who the farmers really were.

At one of the meat stalls, a keen-to-sell English-speaking stallholder told me all the beef was imported, and that 80 per cent of it came from Australia, and the rest from different parts of Europe. The meat was really cheap – the most expensive cuts were only 5 or 6 Euros a kilo. He told me Italian meat was only for the rich.

The second market we went to was Campo de Fiori. There were stalls selling fruit (juicy ripe apricots, and flat, doughnut-like peaches), pasta, and truffle-infused condiments. The highlight though, was the discovery of Antica Norcineria Viola, a butchery that has been going for four generations. The youngest generation butcher was very good looking, of course, and spoke English. He told me they make more than 20 different types of salami, and that people come from Spain to buy them. There was also pork jerky, cooked pork skin ready for pizza, mortadella, an olive and vinegar salad with pig’s head, and a roof hung full of air-dried hams. The hams were not refrigerated, and I could see the fat glistening in the 30-degree heat.

We’ve had some baggage issues – as in, our baggage still has not arrived and we’ve been here four nights. Talking to the baggage claim office has been a bit like talking to Australia’s main telecommunications company – but far worse. I like to think that we’re proving it’s possible to travel Europe with just a school bag and a sunhat. But we are a bit sick of wearing plane clothes.

More photos at flickr.

Next blog… ”If I can drive a European tractor, I can drive a bambino Fiat on the wrong side of the road. Surely.”

Pig farmer goes on an adventure

Yesterday I kissed and squeezed Guy and Mum goodbye at Launceston airport. They argued all the way in the car, of course: Guy teasing Mum about her driving and Mum hassling Guy about looking after my cat while I’m away.

We drank coffees and I handed over my camera and tried to explain how to get it to focus. We went through security and Mum’s fake knee set the alarms off. Guy was in tears of laughter as Mum got searched, thoroughly. “She’s lying,” he told the security staff, “She hasn’t got a fake knee.”

And so began the first leg of my first overseas adventure: a Churchill Fellowship that will take me to Italy, France, Spain, and the UK for seven weeks.

My bags are underweight, my clothes are new and clean, and my bits and pieces are organised in see-through bags.

I met my friend Bronwyn Purvis at Melbourne airport last night. Bronwyn’s a film maker, and she’s coming on this journey to help this farm girl get on a big plane and catch super-fast trains, and secondly, to help me record what I see and learn. I’ve been introducing her as ‘Mount Gnomon Farm’s film maker’.

She laughed at my over-the-top packing last night. Doesn’t everyone pack spare rubber bands, lock seal bags, glue sticks, pegs, and scissors? And apparently I’ve packed enough drugs to open a chemist. I put in the instruction manual for my travel socks, too.

The trip we’re going on is all about food and farm tourism, and I’m asking the question, ‘how can Tasmanian farmers incorporate tourism into their businesses, and offer visitors something amazing they’ll never forget?’.

I’d love it if consumers could spend more time on farms sniffing and scratching and seeing how their food is produced. Tasmanian farmers grow fantastic, quality produce, but we could do so much more with it.

So, the itinerary so far (journalists always leave things to the last minute) starts in Italy, where we will visit balsamic vinegar producers in Modena, go to Parma ham and Parmesan cheese factories and suppliers, and stay at ‘agriturismos’ with organic farmers.

Then we’ll head to Roquefort in France, where blue sheep’s cheese is matured in caves. We’re staying with sheep farmers who supply milk for the cheese, and we’ll stay in the tiny village too, that’s pushed up against an escarpment. Maybe a region of Tassie could do something like this: a whole heap of farmers could supply a handful of artisans to make a product so special it’s exported to the world.

Spain’s next, where we’ll follow the Dehasa and acorn-crunching pigs and learn about the science and romance of Jamon. The ham comes from Iberico pigs – big and black with huge ears and smooth hides. The ham makers are still allowed to hang their hams in the open air, without refrigeration – isn’t that fantastic?

At this point, Bronwyn will fly back to her job in Sydney and I will tackle the United Kingdom on my own. I’m planning to go to heaps of pig farms, and of course places like River Cottage and Jimmy’s Farm. There’s a property, Helen Browning’s Organics, that offers camping with the pigs, and even has an on-farm pub!

I’m sitting in the cactus garden at Changi airport in Singapore, my Tasmanian feet and hands swollen already with the heat. The sun’s just gone down, and we’re waiting for the big flight to Paris, where we’ll catch a smaller flight to Rome.

What do you think the first meal in Rome should be?

What's changed for women in farming?

The Advocate, May 30, 2013

Last night I was part of a panel discussion in Devonport organised by the National Trust. It's been 70 years since Dame Enid Lyons was elected to federal parliament and became the first woman in the House of Representatives. We were asked to reflect on the progress, or lack of progress, in our own professions.

I’ve been thinking about the grandmother I never met, Bessie Wood, who had three children and a husband with itchy feet.

Around 70 years ago the family were living on a farm at Forth, and while I don’t really know what they farmed – I assume they had a mixture of beef cattle, potatoes, and a milking cow – there are three things I remember Dad telling me about that time:

• His mother would make the bread using home-made potato yeast. She’d cook in a Peter’s Oven and judge the temperature by putting her hand in (if the hairs sizzled it was too hot…)
• The family had home-cured bacon, made in a wooden box full of salt, and the meat had to be turned and turned through the process
• And when the men were in the bush working and it was time for lunch, Grandmother would use a bugle to summon them back to the house

70 years later, I’m trying to keep my sourdough bread starter alive, we turn about 20 pork legs into ham a week, and I have been known to get out my tenor horn and play reveille at lunchtime when we’ve got visitors out on the farm.

So have we progressed? That’s the big question. And I think it’s a difficult question to answer in my area of farming, because the family farm is a complex workplace where roles are blurred and sometimes not even defined. Respect is often gained in small circles, but sometimes with no public or broader recognition.

I suspect that a lot women farmers do the same sorts of jobs they did 70 years ago: a mixture of outside and manual work, looking after finances and correspondence, trying to save money while other family members are trying to spend it, and I reckon the majority are still doing more than 50 per cent of the housework and cooking.

The difference might be, that instead of growing only fresh spuds and milk we’ve got opportunities now to produce gourmet potatoes for the Sydney markets, and milk powder for the Chinese middle-class. We’ve got a world to sell to – and we can do it all online if we want. So the opportunities for women to do interesting, rewarding work in agriculture have grown along with our markets and technology.

We have some fantastic examples of women farmers in northern Tasmania. I’m lucky that I get to see some of them regularly at farmers’ markets and foodie groups we’re part of. These are my inspiration:

• Emma-Lynne Pinner who’s a dairy farmer at Brittons Swamp, but also runs Pure Sense and a growing number of other businesses. I think she told me she does 5 business activity statements each quarter.
• Andy Jackman from Red Cow Dairies at Oldina, who used to be in the police force, became a dairy farmer and is now a cheese-maker
• Leonie Hiscutt who has a cropping farm at Howth, who got into tourism, was very involved in the local chamber of commerce, and now is in the Legislative Council.
• Marilyn Brack, an ex-teacher, who produces goats’ milk, cheese, and yoghurt at Mathom Farm at Gunns Plains
• Then there’s garlic grower Rosie Mackinnon, Melina Parker managing a vegetable farm Don, Lesley Frampton on a dairy farm at Gawler, Carol O’Neil with her olive oil….

The list goes on and on and on, and there are so many others who haven’t had their faces in the Tas Country or The Advocate, who are making good returns for their businesses, raising children, and participating in their communities.

I think it’s important that we do continue to try and get our heads in the newspaper, even if we might feel embarrassed, and as though we’re self-promoting. It’s about changing the stereotype in the wider community. Within farming circles there is a great appreciation of women’s role. A dairy farmer told me that his wife’s role of mending socks and feeding the family was just as important as the other farm jobs, because you can’t work with blisters on an empty stomach. I get a bit irritated when customers at the farmers' markets ask me where I get the meat from that I’m selling. I have to try and convince them that it’s from my farm, and I’m a pig farmer, don’t I look like one?!

As a rural reporter, I went along to a lot of male-dominated boring industry meetings that were not inspiring, and were very negative. I can see why women aren’t involved: because they’ve got heaps better things to do. But I think that when the time is right, and a woman in farming has experiences to share and can prioritise these meetings, I think some of us – if we’ve got the right skills – need to go through the pain of sitting at a board table or in a price negotiation meeting, so that the debate is a bit more balanced. We might actually hear farmers being positive about the future of agriculture.

On the day of our fourth anniversary at Mount Gnomon

On the anniversary of four years at Mount Gnomon: a selection of photos from our farm.

It feels significantly longer than four years - and the grey hairs and wrinkles support that!

But as the song says, all you need is love, and without love we wouldn't be here riding the roller coaster of farming.

A special breed

X4 and her calf at Mount Gnomon                       Photo: Eliza Wood

It’s been more than two years since our first Traditional Dairy Shorthorn cattle stepped off a truck onto Mount Gnomon Farm at Penguin, in Tasmania’s north-west.

When Warrick and Betty Holmes sold their girls, we were very fortunate to be given the opportunity to buy a portion of the herd.

Since then, the numbers have slowly grown, and we now have almost 20 females on the property.

We have sourced additional heifers from local dairy farmer Symon Jones, who lives just over the mountain from us.

The dairy shorthorns give us so much pleasure – they are stunning to look at, and they are friendly and easy to handle.

You also never know what you’re going to get at calving time. Often the roan cows produce white calves, and the white cows surprise us with roan calves.

Our goal has always been to direct-market their meat and engage consumers in the dairy shorthorn story.

As the first steer grew closer to size, we crossed our fingers that his meat would fulfill our expectations.

We remember that first piece of porterhouse so well. It was buttery, beautifully marbled and had a texture like none of the other breeds we had processed.

The feedback from the customers across the markets in Tasmania was incredibly positive, and that confirmed in our minds that this was the meat breed we wanted to keep.

Supply has been the biggest issue, and we have sourced young steers from Victoria to fatten on our farm to supplement our own production. It means we can provide customers with dairy shorthorn meat more frequently, and continue to promote the breed while our own numbers increase.

The dairy shorthorn in listed on the Ark of Taste – an international list of flavours at risk of extinction. Our meat was a feature of Slow Food Hobart’s Christmas dinner, which Guy attended (for quality control, of course!).

Our future plans include increasing our production of dairy shorthorn meat; milking a handful to supplement our weaned Wessex saddleback pigs; and promoting the dairy shorthorn as a perfect cow for the smallholder.

Next year we will open a rare breeds interpretation centre on the farm, at which we will hold courses on keeping house cows, making cheese and yoghurt, and numerous animal-related topics. The possibilities are endless!